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  March 19, 2011 5:02 p.m. 44Dwarf Dork

  I've got this older 20ft 1986 Wells Cargo trailer that i really like. The under side is solid but the factory paint is gone as is the bottom inch of the alum sides, from Galvanic corrosion. I'm going to be putting new axles under it as one cracked coming back from bike week. The plan is to put diamond plate on the lower 6 inches of the sides to make it look clean again. In the past I've used POR15 but the last few times it's not lasted like it used too. for example in 1980 i painted the inside of a 65 ford pick up bed and the engine bay with POR15, as of 2 years ago when i sold it you could still see the paint in the bed and the engine bay looked like it was just done. I've used por15 on other projects since then with less luck. It's never let me down but isnot the same as when i did the pick up. I see adverts for RUST BULLET and MasterSeriesCT but what works best? Not top planing on a top coat unless i have no choise.

  44

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  March 19, 2011 5:42 p.m. JoeyM SuperDork

  I'm watching this thread because I have a chassis that will soon need to be stripped/painted. I'm interested in seeing what other responses you get.

  All I can offer is a hypothesis. I was recently told that POR15 worked, but that it didn't have UV protection, and that it would break down if exposed to sunlight. Perhaps they've changed the formula, and what you used earlier didn't have this problem.

  In this thread, 914Driver said, "House of Kolor makes Adhereto, sticks any paint to anything." Perhaps you could use POR15, Adhereto, and then a different paint to protect it.

  914Driver: "Except for us {GRMers} who the hell would build a 1932 Japanese car?"

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  March 19, 2011 5:55 p.m. JThw8 SuperDork

  I've used rustbullet and will continue to do so. Its a great product and it works well.

  Ive heard good things about Masterseries as well but I have no personal experience with it.

  OTTER: "I think that this situation absolutely requires a really futile and stupid gesture be done on somebody's part." BLUTO: "We're just the guys to do it."

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  March 19, 2011 6:30 p.m. mikeatrpi New Reader

  I'll second rustbullet. Its thick and smelly, both positive attributes for a product meant to stick and seal. Plan to buy enough for two coats.

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  March 19, 2011 8:02 p.m. DavidinDurango New Reader

  Anyone tried the rattlecan por-15??????????/

  I've cornered the market on old Ford stuff

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  March 19, 2011 10:09 p.m. Trans_Maro Dork

  Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint.

  We use it at work, great stuff, water thin, flows into every nook, cranny and pit you can find.

  Sprays well without thinning but you need to topcoat it because it has no UV protection.

  Shawn

  Sometimes life leaves a hundred dollar bill on your dresser, and you don't realize until later that it's because it screwed you.

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  March 20, 2011 10:19 a.m. YaNi Reader

  I've had good luck with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. It's less toxic than POR15 and is UV stable.

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  March 20, 2011 6:51 p.m. M2Pilot Reader

  YaNi wrote: I've had good luck with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. It's less toxic than POR15 and is UV stable.

  Me too.

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  March 20, 2011 7:57 p.m. spitfirebill SuperDork

  YaNi wrote: I've had good luck with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. It's less toxic than POR15 and is UV stable.

  I bought the Eastwood paint when it was called Corroless. It was awesome.

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  March 20, 2011 9:22 p.m. foxtrapper SuperDork

  Ya know, that cheap nasty rustoleum rusty metal primer, thin it about 50/50 with acetone, and it soaks into the rust and metal, becoming virtually indestructable.

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  March 20, 2011 9:27 p.m. valiant171 New Reader

  I will only use the "black" rust bullet... the silver worked ok but the black is really the best. Do not get this stuff on your skin!

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