I just bought some new ASA wheels for the Daewoo. They're 15x7s, which is pretty close to the stock 15x6. My question is about the center section.
The stock wheels fit snuggly over the hub and it appears that this hub bears some of the weight. The new wheels have a much larger opening in the center and thus the wheel bolts (Daewoo doesn't use wheel studs, for some reason) will bear all of the cars weight. Do you think this will be a problem?
sometimes , may cause vibration, hubcentric rings may give you peace of mind.
78 s30 / 90 e30
Lanos, Nubira, Leganza, all listed with a center bore of 56.6mm. Hub centering rings, like so, would be a good idea. That being said, I am running E30 bottlecaps (57.1mm) on my Miata (54.1mm) with no hub rings and it hasn't collapsed yet... yet.
I am a King Prawn.
Your factory wheels are known as hubcentric. You're right, the hub is designed to center the wheel and (perhaps) even bear some of the weight, so hub centering rings are probably a good idea.
However, lots of cars ride on lugs only (or bolts), and I am of the opinion that you should be fine.
It will be a bit harder to mount (trying to line up the bolt with no hub to help).
Besides, it's a Daewoo. 
There is an advantage to the bolts (as opposed to lugs). As a Fiat/ Yugo owner (which use bolts), I have found that the 4x98 pattern doesn't offer many options. 4x100 is what a Miata wears, and 4x108 is common for a Mustang. I bored my hubs for all 3 patterns. Now I can put whatever the heck I want on it! 
I just looked at the hub again and the lip seems pretty small. This makes me think the hub lip doesn't have much of a structural role. I guess I can get the rings if it doesn't feel right.
I've run on lugs/bolts only and had no problems, I wouldn't be too worried about it.
Formerly jdmae92
EvanB wrote: I've run on lugs/bolts only and had no problems, I wouldn't be too worried about it.
Sounds like a common refrain ... 
i've had a lot of cars and a couple of trucks with aftermarket wheels that used the lugs to bear the weight of the car and i've never had a problem.
OMG WTF, You will die a firey death and take nuns and orphans with you.
Sorry, it's the internet someone had to be the voice of unreason. You will probably be fine.
"You should never point a loaded gun at anyone. This is not a hard and fast rule, however. A hard and fast rule is that you should never, ever, point an unloaded gun at anyone." P.J. O'Rourke
From a design standpoint, the difference between hub-centric and lug-centric goes beyond the weight bearing factor (The hub is usually much too short to bear much weight anyway). When a vehicle and wheel are hub-centric, the hub is used as the datum point for the manufacture of the hub/rotor and wheel. When they are lug-centric it is the lugs that are used for that purpose. IOW, in the manufacturing of a hub-centric wheel, the bead diameter is held concentric to the hub, not the bolt hole circle, and visa versa. So when using a lug-centric wheel on a hub-centric vehicle, there is a chance for vibration because the wheel wasn't held concentric to the lugs when it was manufactured. In reality, most wheels and hubs are now manufactured with close enough tolerances that this isn't really much of a problem, but it can be.
We have a very hard time getting fwd Volvos to quit shaking when wheels are not hub centered, and they use bolts. Studs and nuts on rwd, it seems to be no problem.
If you're going to run without the hubcentric rings, just torque down the lug nuts carefully and incrementally, in the proper pattern of course. I usually go through the pattern 3-4 times increasing torque as evenly as possible. I've run without them and that's usually good enough to center the wheel properly.
A lot will depend on manufacturing tolerances and the wheel and bolt design. If the wheels and bolts are made with a tapered meeting face you should be all right.
I have done it both ways with varying sucess. You will know fairly quickly due to the vibration from being off-center. I had one car where leaving out the hub centering rings was fine on the front but created a big vibraton on the rear.
2010 Transit Connect XLT 2001 Ford Focus with a little help from Powerworks
So this actually turned out to be a huge pain in the ass. Daewoo, I'm beginning to realize, is weird. They for some reason decided to use the shortest possible bolts and, to accommodate this goal, made the aluminum mounting area where the tapered bolts go through the wheel and into the hub very thin. ASA, evidently, does not design their wheels to use the smallest possible bolts and thus when I tried to mount the wheels I would only get two or three threads into the hub. Definitely not safe.
So commenced two days of me running around trailing students, speaking bad Korean and trying to find another car that uses compatible wheel bolts. Finally found a solution yesterday. My Daewoo now shares components with this thing, which I figure can't be a bad thing because the Ssangyong Rodius weighs like 5000 lbs and it's bolts looked considerably beefier. I'm just worried that the ugliness will spread, like a virus, onto my car.
Also, I've got some hubcentric rings that I'm picking up today because I found them cheap and I figure they can't hurt.
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