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I've found a rediculously pristine MR2 at a dealer with only 37,000 miles. Dealer wants $8,000, which may be fair considering it's condition, but feels about double what I'd be willing to pay.
How much are rust free low-mileage AW11s worth? Or are they getting so rare there really isn't a guide?
Oh Here's a link. If someone beats me to it, so be it.
If you love your MR2s, I'd say it's probably worth it.
--There is no turd more polished than the Ford Mustang--
I'm like you. I'd be a lot happier at half that. Assuming it's as nice as it looks.
I'd be buying it to drive it, since they're a blast. With that in mind, I can find some pretty nice ones in the 2.5-3k range. And this one would rapidly become closer to those with use, so why pay 5k more only to have it be similar to the 3k one after a year?
'08 Mazdaspeed3, '00 PontiacGrand Prix GT, '96 Cherokee
Yeah, I put in an offer that will probably get an expletive laced reply. But eff 'em, they're salesmen, they should be used to it.
Is it worth it? Hard to say. Because I bet that the dealer will get close to that, but I don't think it is worth it.
For a point of reference, there is one near here that was for sale for under $2,000 that was as clean or cleaner (yes, really), but it had over 100k miles.
The problem is that these cars in this condition are few and far between; when they get put up for a really good price they get snatched up.
Anytime somebody tells you that vodka mixes well with anything, slide them a jar of mayonnaise and tell them to practice what they preach.
I know for a fact they dealer was asking $9000 a month ago, so... Who knows, maybe they're tired of looking at it.
Cars like that are worth it if you always wanted one and want to keep it forever. You'll never get your money back from it, especially if you drive it and get the mileage up. But you can't find something like that everyday.
You know they'd take less than they're asking. Say you could get it for $6k. A Toyota with 37,000 miles? You could drive it for a good long time and probably have very little to do to it for a good long time. And it's in really nice shape, so you don't have to fix stuff to make it nice.
I say go for it if you really want it and plan to keep it. Otherwise, it's a pass.
Dude, it's a 0.0 liter engine. SUper rare!
I probably would not pay 8K, but damn I do want it!
XBL GamerTag: bcbrownell Racing is the process of turning money into noise.
A few thoughts:
Maroon? I have no proof but my first thought is that these were not offered in Maroon rather just a red-red that matches the red seats. Look for repaint?
Edit: This link says there never was a maroon for 1985, just Super Red.
http://www.toyotareference.com/mr2
The Super Red was known for fading but with such little actual driving and an interior that looks to have been kept out of the sun??
Although, the nose and rear name badge-stickers are correct. These typically never get replaced after a repaint and the correct stickers have not been available for years. It could be a really old repaint.
The parking brake is fully extended up, that is a lot of parking brake slop for a car with only 37k, even if the parking brake was used every time. More so, these cars are known for inop parking brakes because it is a metal cable within a metal sheath and then the rust causes metal to metal friction that results in inop.
It has the ash tray. These are damn near impossible to find. It also has the elbow pad on the center console. These too crack, split, etc and are no longer replaceable.
Crank windows, that is good. The electric switches go bad.
Climate control, cool (and hot) option.
They may be new but look like crappy tires. Sumic Brand?
Chin spoiler is in tact. These get taken out by parking stops. No replacements available.
Seems that it too may be a desirable fix roof car giving more headroom that the sunroof version and no leaking like t-tops
Haha, email offer of $4000, here's the reply.
"Thank you for inquiring about the 1985 Toyota MR2 . This vehicle is in stock and has been inspected by our service department and is ready for delivery.
However, can not accept your offer. The best I can do is 7495.00 plus tax, title and fees."
So, I'm not getting it at that price, I mean the car is one year younger than I am.
Hmmm. Maybe I'll shoot them an off of $7000 OTD and see what happens.
jimbob_racing wrote: Hmmm. Maybe I'll shoot them an off of $7000 OTD and see what happens.
If it is worth that to you, then go for it, because it isn't to me.
One email brought it down $500 and they still really do not know if your are a serious buyer or even really capable of coming up with even $4k. I would say that this is pretty good price movement off one email. Keep up the conversation and you may be able to get the price much lower yet.
The carfax link in the original ad shows that this car has no real miles put on it since 1997.
http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?vin=JT2AW15C3F0013483&partne...
That is 14 years of no driving. Look for proof of replacement of rubber bits like radiator hoses, etc.
Walk in with $4K and see what they say. I bet they move a little more than $500....
I have a pretty open Saturday, so I think I'll drop by and see what happens.
That's the kind of car I would pay a lot of money for if I had a lot of money.
I sold my '88 MR2 back in 2004. I am not sure about a '85 but for sure on the '88's (and my guess is also the '85's) there is a VIN tag on each body panel.
In this picture of the frunk open you can see a small white tag on each fender.
Looking down near the radiator you will see this tag for the front bumper assembly.
The frunk hood may not have this exact sticker but will have factory markings for emissions, etc.
There will be factory marking on each door as well as each door post near the latch.
The engine cover should have factory stickers and the trunk lid will have the little white tag, shown here.
These white tags will have the VIN number on them. Be sure the numbers match and that it is not just a used part with a different VIN.
All these things can be used to drive down the price.
Test the parking brake for sticking, dragging or just plain not working.
Bad tie rods can create a 65 mph shimmy on these cars.
OldGray320i wrote: Walk in with $4K and see what they say. I bet they move a little more than $500....
A briefcase full of cash is a mighty bargaining tool. Although, you may need five dollar bills to fill a briefcase in this situation.
wow this thread really makes me miss my mr2 days :(... 1st mod to do... pull the center console and remove that stupid gear shift plate... it will have an MR2 logo under it :)...
I bet you could find a very clean model for 1/2 that and not worry about killing it's value...
"Just because you can think outside of the box, it doesn't mean we are going to let you out of it." ~ John Brown
That's what I've decided to do. I've decided what I'm willing to pay for it, and if the dealer doesn't like it, then he can keep it.
There was no automatic climate control in the US. Is this a canadian car? As was mentioned, that red is definitely a respray. That takes is from a collectors car to a "Really Nice Old Toyota" in my book, and I'm thinking $4500-5 tops.
Check for rust repair in the rear wells (look through the trunk.) 37k could still mean major rust issues.
I dunno....In 99 I paid $100.00 for my 87 MR2 with t-tops and blown HG. otherwise fine car. $120 worth of parts and I drove it for 2 years.
Fun car, but I don't think its worth anywhere near $8K. $3-4K maybe
Would rather be riding my Bi-Valve lnterior Combustion Twice-Exhausted Bi-Axle Nitro-Cycle
I'm probably one of the biggest MR2 fans out there, and have owned more than a dozen, and I have to say, for the right one, i'd pay that for it. However, at that price, it better have new belts, hoses, timing belt, fuel pump, plugs, etc. In other words, it better not only have low miles, but better have had a major service to make it road worthy. My experience has been that if you get a car that's rarely been driven, and then start driving it, things start to fail.
The problem with MR2s are, that it's hard to find nice ones. I wish I'd never sold my last one. I've been looking for a replacement for a while now, and everyone I've seen has been a total dog. I don't want to do a resto at all, and most require a total rebuild.
So if the car is in nice shape, original paint, interior, etc., I'd hold out for more money than that too. There are plenty of us old guys that bought them new that now want another one!
^I'm with Dave.
I'd pay $7k for that thing (You could easily get them down to that if you wave cash around.), but it had better have everything he mentioned. Ready to rock, basically ready to drive and hoon around for a year or two minimum with no real maintenence.
I'd be much happier paying $7k for an S/C variant in that shape, but these days, that thing is a unicorn.
Good luck!
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