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  Nov. 29, 2009 11:36 a.m. PHeller HalfDork

  My buddy KNB13 has got this 01 Mustang GT. Recently got a Bassani X-Pipe that made it louder, along with the cat back that was put on by the previous owner.
  

  It's got Ford Racing springs and Tokicos.

  For all intensive purposes it's still a big car that handles like a bigger car.

  Because I'm an auto enthusiast, I'm not really trying to find anything out for him, just wanting to answer some of my own questions. I love Mustangs, but in the years that I've been reading GRM I also know how bad the suspensions are.

  If we wanted to make this car handle on a budget, but we're also interested in getting a mad-tight tuck the wheels look that Mustang's look so nice with...how would we go about doing it? Is there a cheap way of getting -2.5 or more drop, while utilizing a cheap roll center adjuster to get a decent look and decent handling Mustang for less than the cost of a Griggs Racing street pack?

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  Nov. 29, 2009 12:36 p.m. ReverendDexter Dork

  Decent handling can be done, but I'm honestly not sure how to pair it with that much drop and still be halfway cheap.

  The three biggest things to address on a fox-chassis car (79-04) are chassis flex, steering alignment, and the horrid geometry imparted by the rear upper control arms; you can address each of those directly via CC plates, full-length subframe connectors, and a torque arm conversion.

  Even with those, though, I'm not really sure how the geometry would handle the drop your looking for. I've heard of some companies making drop spindles, but that only helps you in the front end.

  Maybe attack it from the other side, and put some larger OD tires in the wheelwells?

  --There is no turd more polished than the Ford Mustang--

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  Dec. 1, 2009 7:54 p.m. paul New Reader

  Is the crazy drop a absolute must??

  If not, you could spend under $2k and have a very nice handling car:

  -full length wield-on subframe connectors, -h&r race springs (small drop):

  http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/pj350/IMG_0038.jpg

  -bilstein HD shocks/struts, -MM camber/caster plates, -MM r. lower control arms,

  Keep the upper arms stock if your not going to a panhard bar and/or TA setup, the stock bushings have alot more 'give' which translate into less suspension bind under compression.

  In terms of the springs, anything with spring rates less than the h&r race springs will just feel soggy when near the limits, and have excessive body roll. The ride is somewhere between a stock wrx and a stock sti (very livable for daily driver use).

  Something else to look into (but is probably past his budget) would be a better rear diff, or at least upgrading to the carbon disk kit which lasts longer than the stock one...

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  Dec. 1, 2009 8:16 p.m. Apexcarver SuperDork

  The parts on my car are as follows

  H&R race springs (much stiffer then your ford racing ones)

  Koni yellow SA (Tokico isnt much better then stock really)

  Front urethane bushings

  CC plates

  35mm addco front swaybar/stock cobra rear bar

  dont drop the car too low, you cant save the roll centers easily as you might think. Making the front subterranean is really easy and the rear roll center is something like a foot in the air. (one of the mustangs big problems is the inclination of the roll axis) The reason for the big bar in the front is more to limit roll to prevent camber loss. (my alignment currently is neutral toe with max caster and 2.5 camber, next year I am going with less caster and more camber, about 3 this is for ESP though)

  As I said, my car is for ESP with Rcomps, it might be more extreme then your looking for.

  read this for more help and general information http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

  formerly known as hotstang

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