• 

  April 13, 2011 6:33 a.m. Rustspecs13 Reader

  Fantastic!

  This is the same 944 I posed about before, we got it running, both crank sensors went bad. We had to even chop off the bracket with a sawzaw and buy a new one. My dads positive that nothing fell down there. I'm not because we have a problem.

  After getting it running with the new sensors, bracket and bolt, It wont go into gear now. We thought it was the clutch hydraulics. Tried bleeding them, and the more we bleed it by pumping the clutch the less fluid and pedal pressure we got. gravity bleeding restored some pressure. So my dad bought a new master and slave cylinder and we put them bleed them. Great pedal pressure now, but it still wont go into gear.

  Any ideas? My next idea is dropping the bellhousing, and droping the center tube. OH BOY.

  ~Alex

• 

  April 13, 2011 6:43 a.m. KATYB Reader

  does it go into gear with engine off?

  Dont judge on looks alone whether car or person there is often alot more there then u can see.

• 

  April 13, 2011 8:07 a.m. Javelin SuperDork

  Take the center console apart first and look at the shifter. It's fairly easy to bend/break something in there that would cause it to not go in gear.

  Michael Pinto - 73 AMC Javelin 360 / GoKart / 86 944 Sport / 01 Grand Prix GT / 06 Mazda5 M5

• 

  April 13, 2011 8:53 a.m. joepaluch Reader

  Ok first thing. With the engine off. Have one of you get under the car and look at the clutch slave. You should be able to see the end of it through an open port in the bell housing. See if the pin moves when you depress the clutch.

  So first step is the clutch working or not. you can also check this by going to the back of the car and pulling the rubber covers on the rear bell housing and see if you can turn driveshaft. It will turn with the clutch in if the car is in neutral or not.

  If the clutch is working the the problem is in the shift rod. It could be at the forward end under the boot or at the back end on the top of gearbox. Front end is just a simple joint and easy to see with the boot off from in the car. In the rear that long black rod goes into a brass/silver shaft that connects to shifter in the box. Remember to change gears the shifter must move both forward/back and twist. There is a set screw on the end of black rod that connects to the brass/silver shaft. It should be under a rubber boot if still somewhat stock. However these boots can get removed over time and prior maintenance.

  Joe Paluch - NASA 944 Spec - Arizona - 4th 2009 NASA Nationals

• 

  April 14, 2011 5:31 p.m. Rustspecs13 Reader

  Ok adjusted the clutch as far as it could go, and still nothing. You can start it in 1st/reverse and it'll creep on a level road. But it takes moving half up the clutch pedal range for it to bite. Just like normal, except it feels like its just slightly engaged all the time. Driving around requires rev matching even with using the clutch. And the trans hates being rev matched clutchless.

  It feels like you just cant dis engage the clutch enough even though there's plenty of pedal travel. I'm not 100% sure its fully bled but it doesn't seem to be the issue.

  What could have failed sitting for 4 months to cause the clutch to be engaged all the time?

  I'll take a look at the shifter but I don't think it could cause it to shift hard like that. All gears work when driving on the road. Just not at a dead stop.

  ~Alex

You'll need to log in to post.