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  Jan. 18, 2009 10:45 a.m. KaptKaos Reader

  So I have been stuck in a gumption trap the last few weeks. I was really starting to worry. I had broken an exhaust stud on my 914. The very top of the stop sheared off inside a nut I was taking off. The remaining stud had too little thread to double-nut, and I couldn't get any torque with vice grips.
  

  My friend Mark hooked me up with this:

  http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946338000P

  I don't intend to advertise for Sears or anyone else, but this worked. I used PBlast, added some heat to the area around the stud and the slow application of pressure dd the trick!
  

  I tried to find the thread about tool must haves, but couldn't so I had to make a new one. Sorry Tim.

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  Jan. 18, 2009 11:21 a.m. bikesnrovers New Reader

  How does it work with bolts that are broken off flush? It seems to me you would have to have at least a bit of bolt showing.

  Not that I won't get it, being the tool whore that I am.

  Tad

  If it doesn't leak... it's not mine!

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  Jan. 18, 2009 11:31 a.m. André Rousseau Reader

  Oh I had a nightmare one in my head a few yrs.

  http://www.gt6.ca/05/12-15/slides/DCP04908.html

  Bolt was frozen in place, its backside inside the water pump area.

  I actually ended up using my nutcracker.

  
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  Jan. 18, 2009 2:25 p.m. KaptKaos Reader

  Flush... not so good. You basically bang these on the end of the exposed stud or nut and then use a wrench to turn them.

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  Jan. 18, 2009 3:00 p.m. aeronca65t Reader

  My absolute favourite tool for this is a left-handed drill bit.

  Make a GOOD center-punch mark in the broken off stud and start drilling. The drill should be about 3/4 of the diameter of the broken stud.

  After a while, when you start drilling ,due to the vibration and torque of the drill, the broken stud will often "unscrew".

  And I'm cheap, so I don't even buy a proper left-hand drill......I just sharpen a normal drill "backwards" and have at it!

  Enjoy Every Sandwich ~ W.Z.

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  Jan. 18, 2009 3:32 p.m. bikesnrovers New Reader

  I have a selection of Easy-outs but the problem I have run across is that you cannot always get a drill where you need it.

  These look like the thing to use in tighter spots.

  If it doesn't leak... it's not mine!

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  Jan. 19, 2009 12:35 a.m. KaptKaos Reader

  Yeah - I've broken a few easy outs. Which on the head, made me want to find an alternative.

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  Jan. 19, 2009 10:52 a.m. Ian F Reader

  Agreed. I think I've broken more easy-outs than I've had them work successfully. One of the worst broken-bolt experiences I've had required me to drill out the remains until I was almost to the threads and then used a tap to clean everything up.
  

  I never cared for the cam-style stud remover. I have a different type made by OTC.

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  Jan. 19, 2009 11:16 a.m. bikesnrovers New Reader

  You guys are not the first I have heard that have had problems with easy-outs... in fact the last one that I bought the guy at the hardware store said "those never work for me."

  Knock wood, but I have never had a problem using one. If I can get a drill into the bolt I can use the easy-out with success... and liberal application of PB Blaster.

  If it doesn't leak... it's not mine!

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  Jan. 19, 2009 2:24 p.m. Ian F Reader

  Anymore, I've discovered that the trick to not breaking easy-outs is to be conscious of how much torque you're putting on it... it seems very easy to say, "if I just twist it a little bit har--- CRAP!"

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  Jan. 19, 2009 6:18 p.m. RX_MG New Reader

  Flat rate techs will always try the reverse drill bit when broken flush because its true vibration or who knows or cares.For tight spots you need an angle drill.If time is on your side hit it with your best rust helper & let it work in over night.

  wankle

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  Jan. 19, 2009 11:19 p.m. Series6 New Reader

  I bought one of those from Sears about 2 years ago. Ever since then I haven't broken anything.

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