• 

  Aug. 30, 2010 11:54 a.m. dombone76 None

  Hey all. I just bought my wife a '65 Volvo 122s. Her dream car for many years now!! It needs a bit of work to get it going, but I am fairly handy and I got it for a really good price ($460 :) ).

  So, first on the list of 2 do's is changing the water pump. I felt pretty confidant that I could do it myself as I changed the water pump in an old ford truck I used to have, but when I started working on it I ran into those metallic hoses running from the sides and allowed them to thwart my progress. I have been searching online for a walk through the project and have been unable to find one.

  Can anyone that has removed and installed one help me out here??

  Thanks,

  D

• 

  Aug. 30, 2010 2:06 p.m. VClassics Reader

  I think it's all much easier if you pull the radiator. It's just held in by two bolts at the top corners. Leave the top and bottom hoses on the radiator.

  Remove the fan belt, fan and water pump pulley.

  Undo one bolt and work the pipe for the lower radiator hose out of the pump.

  Undo one more bolt and work the heater distribution tube out of the pump. No need to disconnect it at the back end.

  Undo three more bolts and the pump comes off.

  The new pump should come with a gasket and four rubber rings. The ones with the square section go on the radiator and heater pipes. Smear some dish detergent on them to make them slide into the pump more easily.

  The rings with an oval section seal the top of the pump to the head. You need to hold the pump in place without distorting the rings, and the pry straight up on it until you can get some bolt started. This is the only part of the job that's remotely tricky.

  After that, it all goes back together in reverse order.

• 

  Aug. 30, 2010 2:12 p.m. KaptKaos Reader

  You can also check here: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?model=120-130

  Good luck.

• 

  Aug. 30, 2010 3:07 p.m. oldeskewltoy Reader

  VClassics wrote: You need to hold the pump in place without distorting the rings, and the pry straight up on it until you can get some bolt started. This is the only part of the job that's remotely tricky. After that, it all goes back together in reverse order.

  Ahhhh, another learned olde Volvo repairer

• 

  Sept. 2, 2010 12:32 p.m. volvoclearinghouse Reader

  Definitely remove the radiator. It helps to get the generator out of the way, too. While you've got the gennie off, go ahead and toss it in the recycle bin and buy a GM 3 wire alternator. ;-) The bracketry to adapt is trivial, as is the wiring, and the electrical system will thank you. I have a GM alternator on my '67 122 wagon. Absolutely the best mod you can make.
  

  While I usually try to avoid using RTV (I've often cursed previous mechanics who RTV the snot out of a gasket, making it impossible to clean off the surface when the time comes to replace it), this is one job where it comes in handy. Those two O-rings. Get the best, highest temp RTV you can find, and smear it all over the O-rings before setting them into the grooves on the water pump. Then slide the whole mess up into the engine and start your bolts. Let it cure overnight.

  I've done a few B-series engine water pumps, and this method works the best in my experience. The "preferred" method is to remove the head, replace the pump, and install the head, but unless you need to do some head work anyway, that's not necessary. Then again, you can de-head a B-series in about 20 minutes...

• 

  Sept. 3, 2010 1:15 a.m. redstack New Reader

  Hi Phil, glad to see you're on here. I still wish I had been able to swing that p1800 last year. R

You'll need to log in to post.